My flight to Ecuador was
scheduled for Friday 11/1 but due to flooding in Hopkins because of days of
heavy rain I started my journey early.
The Hopkins bus hadn’t run since Friday because of 4 feet of water on
the road out of the village. The flooding was so bad that the Hopkins Clinic
sent a woman in labor out to the main highway by boat to be met by ambulance. I
had about 18 inches of water around my trailer. The level would rise and fall a
few inches every couple of hours but I was worried that, with heavy rains
forecast, I wouldn’t be able to get out of the village as planned on
Wednesday. So on Monday I decided that I
would leave early Tuesday and have an extra day to travel. My plan was to try to hitch a ride with
someone who had a high sitting pickup because I’d heard that some were making
the trip out. But the 7am bus made a stab at it. By now the water on Hopkins Rd had receded to
less than 2 feet deep so the bus had no problem making the trip. It looked like we were driving on a river
though.
Late Wednesday night (11/30) I
walked out into the hallway to go to the front desk of my hotel to get a water
refill and sitting in the chair to the right of my door (the direction I was
headed) was a naked 20 something brunette! She was just sitting there staring
straight ahead. I asked her if she was ok but she just sat there. I asked her
again and again no reply. She looked awake but I got the distinct impression
she was sleep walking, or sleep sitting as the case turned out. The door to the
room next door to mine was open so I went and flashed the lights and said
hello. A young guy stepped out of the bathroom, which is right next to the
door, and I said "I think your lady is sleep-walking. She's sitting in a
chair in the hall." "Oh shit" is all he said and came out and
got her. A few minutes later he came to my room and thanked me for saving her.
Actually I think he might have been thanking me for not taking advantage of
her. Anyway we agreed not to say anything about me finding her if we ran into
each other at breakfast tomorrow morning. No sense in embarrassing her. It was
just too funny! The more I thought about
it though the more I think I could have gotten into real trouble had she come
to. I probably should have just gone back into my room and waited until she was
found by her friend (?) or someone else.
So add that to my boob adventure on the chicken bus to Belize City a
couple of years ago. I guess I get things like this handed to me because I'm
safe. Like a woman's gay male friend
(but not gay) who they don't have to worry about them taking advantage or
hitting on them.
My stay in Playa was relaxing but
I was itching to get underway to EC. I
booked my bus ticket to the Cancun Airport for 5am Friday which was the
earliest bus I could get. But that was
ok because my flight wasn’t until 7am and Cancun is a very easy airport to
check into and get to the gates. I
actually checked in online the night before.
Anyway I got to the Mexican ADO bus station at 4:45. Come 5am no bus. I noticed a bit of commotion and asked a guy
what was up. He went to the counter and
asked and came right back. They told him
that the highway was closed south of Playa and the bus wasn’t coming. Great!!!
A few minutes later they announced that they were going to put us into
cabs at the cost of the bus ticket. So
that was ok as long as I got there with enough time to check in at the counter,
check 1 bag, clear security and make the gate. We got there at 6:30 and when I
walked up to the counter the agent greeted me by name. Now that was odd! But I was the last one to check in for the
flight. Everything went swimmingly though.
The next stop was in Panama City
Panama to change planes. Panama looked
really pretty from the air. I got to see
the canal too. Their airport is pretty
small and easy to navigate. Got a cup of
Dunkin’ Donuts coffee too! But I passed
on the donut. I had a 3 hour wait there
before my flight to Guayaquil Ecuador.
I’d decided that since I was getting in at 5:30pm I didn’t want to travel
to Salinas (my 1st place to visit) so I’d booked a room in the Hotel
Jeshua. Really nice small place and I
got a Spanish language version of The New Testament. Great way to start my trip! One of the things that I’ll have to get used
to in Ecuador is that there is 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of night there
because of its geographic location. No
more long summer nights to fish.
Saturday morning I took a $3
twenty mile cab ride to the bus station. It’s located in a mall with the ticket
booths separated by national and international, both down different hallways
and by different floors for boarding.
First thing I did though was stop at a cell phone kiosk and buy myself a
phone. Thirty four dollars for a basic
phone. My friend Sheila had given me an
unlocked phone but of course I thought I’d packed it and of course I couldn’t
find it. So, the unexpected $34
expenditure. Anyway now I’m at least connected in EC and can call hotels and
hostels as I get close to a new town for directions. I’ve come to realize quite
quickly that I really am going to have to make an effort to learn Spanish
because I haven’t run across very many English speakers so far this trip. I’m
trying my darndest to use what little language skill I do possess, and learning
more every day, but it’s still a challenge sometimes. On with my story… I purchased
my bus ticket from Guayaquil to Salinas (90miles) for the exorbitant rate of
$3.50. It was a 2-1/2 hour ride and was
very comfortable. In Salinas there isn’t
a bus station per se, only a bus corner. Not used to that. Most places in Central America have real bus
terminals. It didn’t make any difference
to me though. Just another point of
interest in my new adventure. We arrived
a noon and conveniently there was a place called Cevicheland right across the
street. Lots of fresh seafood. I bought something called seafood mariscos
that was priced at $6.50 and when it came it was almost a meal for 2 and
included a soft drink. Needless to say I
didn’t eat dinner! Next stop was to
check into a hotel. I hadn’t made any
reservations but had 2 picked out. The 1st
was Hotel Caravel at $18 a night and booked 1 night. Up 3 flights of stairs and into what looked
like a nice room. Checked it out and
found out that there wasn’t a toilet seat. What the heck! So I went back down the stairs (did I mention
I hurt my right heel 2 days before <don’t know how> and was limping?) to
ask about it. “We don’t have toilet
seats says the front desk.” WHAT??? Checked out, walked back up and down the 3
flights for my luggage and on to the next hotel. Hostal Aqui
/ Scores Sports Bar turned out to be very nice and only $18 for a room with
a/c. Great place and it’s owned by expat
Will Taylor. Put my stuff in my room and came out for a local pilsner or
2. I wasn’t hungry (remember I had that
big lunch) but almost gave in because everyone was raving about his hamburgers. Anyway I met a nice group of expats and spent
most evenings in the bar with them and shared a few cigars. I also met up with
FB friend James Currington and his lady and they toured me around the Salinas
area. Also introduced me to their
friends Bill and Colleen who are about to open their new Nuestro Paraiso B&B in Manglaralto. A few days later I was their first guest,
sort of their soft opening. What a
beautiful place! Not really near the beach but close enough to almost walk to
and very convenient to buses. I spent 3 nights there and did day tours of a
couple towns in the surrounding area that were on my list to visit.
One of the towns I visited was Montanita,
maybe 2 miles from Bill and Colleen, filled with restaurants (even a Sushi one),
shops, a really nice beach, and a population of Rastafarian and hippy types. I could live there! But its low season and I’d have to come back
and spend a lot more time there to really get a feeling for the place. For me it’s the “feel” of the town, not sure
how to describe it, but that kind of comfortable “I’m home” feeling that we had
the 2nd time we visited Belize and every year afterward for the 12
that we holidayed there. I felt that
right away here. But I wasn’t looking at
apartments or houses to rent though so I’ll have to come spend more time there
in my February and March visit. Bill
gave me the name of a realtor that they used and I’ll get with her before I
come back next year.
Digressing for a moment, my plans
are to travel the coast south to north and visit about 15-17 towns that I’ve
put in a list. I’ll pick 2-3 that really
strike me and then come back for all of February and March and spend time in
each to see if I really like it there.
You get a feeling pretty quickly that a certain place might be a good
place to live in but until you spend at least a couple of weeks actually living
there 24x7 you have no idea what it’s like.
And when I do return I'll still probably check out a few more towns that I missed. So, that’s my plan and I'm sticking to it! If
you’re interested in seeing the route I plan to take click “map” and it will
bring up the map that I’m using.
On Friday 11/8 I moved on to
Ayampe, a small village about ½ hour north and in my top 10 places to
visit. It’s a tiny fishing village with
dirt streets and very friendly people.
The 12 (yes I counted!) that I passed as I walked the short distance
into town all said hello. How cool was that?
I ran into a traveler named Roman, from Argentina, who lucky for me,
spoke English. He’s been here about 45 days. .He came planning to spend a week
and has never left. He called the village “magical” and has no plans to leave
any time soon. Shades of my friend Conan
who came to Kismet for 30 days and never left.
I plan to stay here 2 nights and wander about.
The one thing I’ve been surprised
by here is how chilly it’s been. Not
quite jeans/jacket weather but on the verge.
The expats I’ve spoken with say it’s an odd weather year so I’m
wondering it’s a 10-11-12 year weather cycle thing. But they do say this time
of year is mostly cloudy and can be rather cool. When I 1st started looking at
Ecuador it was because I want 100 degrees all day every day but soon found that
it was more like spring weather most of the year with some high 90’s. I’m used to the 90 degree heat and 300+ days
of sun in Belize so this would take some getting used to! It’s really all going to depend on the
fishing. When I look at a beach my first
thoughts are “do I see and fish swimming and are there places that look like
they will attract fish?” I’ve seen some pretty encouraging spots in my travels
so far so that’s a plus. But actually
putting a line in the water will be the true test. I may get in some fishing this trip when I
get to San Clemente (I have a FB friend who will lend me a rod) but the heavy
fishing will be during my next trip when I bring a rod/reel and tackle.
All in all I’m impressed with Ecuador, its people, and the geography. Food prices (fresh veggie/fruit especially), bus and cab prices (local bus 40 cents for about 3 towns worth and a couple of bucks for longer distances and cabs for $1-3 for pretty good distances), restaurant and hotels, etc. are really reasonable and much cheaper than in Belize. I’m pretty sure that I can make a comfortable life here.
As always, practice peace! This is the Fatboy in Ecuador signing off for now!!!
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