Traveling in Mexico and Ecuador

My flight to Ecuador was scheduled for Friday 11/1 but due to flooding in Hopkins because of days of heavy rain I started my journey early.  The Hopkins bus hadn’t run since Friday because of 4 feet of water on the road out of the village. The flooding was so bad that the Hopkins Clinic sent a woman in labor out to the main highway by boat to be met by ambulance. I had about 18 inches of water around my trailer. The level would rise and fall a few inches every couple of hours but I was worried that, with heavy rains forecast, I wouldn’t be able to get out of the village as planned on Wednesday.  So on Monday I decided that I would leave early Tuesday and have an extra day to travel.  My plan was to try to hitch a ride with someone who had a high sitting pickup because I’d heard that some were making the trip out. But the 7am bus made a stab at it.  By now the water on Hopkins Rd had receded to less than 2 feet deep so the bus had no problem making the trip.  It looked like we were driving on a river though.

Late Wednesday night (11/30) I walked out into the hallway to go to the front desk of my hotel to get a water refill and sitting in the chair to the right of my door (the direction I was headed) was a naked 20 something brunette! She was just sitting there staring straight ahead. I asked her if she was ok but she just sat there. I asked her again and again no reply. She looked awake but I got the distinct impression she was sleep walking, or sleep sitting as the case turned out. The door to the room next door to mine was open so I went and flashed the lights and said hello. A young guy stepped out of the bathroom, which is right next to the door, and I said "I think your lady is sleep-walking. She's sitting in a chair in the hall." "Oh shit" is all he said and came out and got her. A few minutes later he came to my room and thanked me for saving her. Actually I think he might have been thanking me for not taking advantage of her. Anyway we agreed not to say anything about me finding her if we ran into each other at breakfast tomorrow morning. No sense in embarrassing her. It was just too funny!  The more I thought about it though the more I think I could have gotten into real trouble had she come to. I probably should have just gone back into my room and waited until she was found by her friend (?) or someone else.  So add that to my boob adventure on the chicken bus to Belize City a couple of years ago. I guess I get things like this handed to me because I'm safe.  Like a woman's gay male friend (but not gay) who they don't have to worry about them taking advantage or hitting on them.

My stay in Playa was relaxing but I was itching to get underway to EC.  I booked my bus ticket to the Cancun Airport for 5am Friday which was the earliest bus I could get.  But that was ok because my flight wasn’t until 7am and Cancun is a very easy airport to check into and get to the gates.  I actually checked in online the night before.  Anyway I got to the Mexican ADO bus station at 4:45.  Come 5am no bus.  I noticed a bit of commotion and asked a guy what was up.  He went to the counter and asked and came right back.  They told him that the highway was closed south of Playa and the bus wasn’t coming.  Great!!!  A few minutes later they announced that they were going to put us into cabs at the cost of the bus ticket.  So that was ok as long as I got there with enough time to check in at the counter, check 1 bag, clear security and make the gate. We got there at 6:30 and when I walked up to the counter the agent greeted me by name.  Now that was odd!  But I was the last one to check in for the flight. Everything went swimmingly though.

The next stop was in Panama City Panama to change planes.  Panama looked really pretty from the air.  I got to see the canal too.  Their airport is pretty small and easy to navigate.  Got a cup of Dunkin’ Donuts coffee too!  But I passed on the donut.  I had a 3 hour wait there before my flight to Guayaquil Ecuador.  I’d decided that since I was getting in at 5:30pm I didn’t want to travel to Salinas (my 1^st place to visit) so I’d booked a room in the Hotel Jeshua.  Really nice small place and I got a Spanish language version of The New Testament.  Great way to start my trip!  One of the things that I’ll have to get used to in Ecuador is that there is 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of night there because of its geographic location.  No more long summer nights to fish.

Saturday morning I took a $3 twenty mile cab ride to the bus station. It’s located in a mall with the ticket booths separated by national and international, both down different hallways and by different floors for boarding.  First thing I did though was stop at a cell phone kiosk and buy myself a phone.  Thirty four dollars for a basic phone.  My friend Sheila had given me an unlocked phone but of course I thought I’d packed it and of course I couldn’t find it.  So, the unexpected $34 expenditure. Anyway now I’m at least connected in EC and can call hotels and hostels as I get close to a new town for directions. I’ve come to realize quite quickly that I really am going to have to make an effort to learn Spanish because I haven’t run across very many English speakers so far this trip. I’m trying my darndest to use what little language skill I do possess, and learning more every day, but it’s still a challenge sometimes. On with my story… I purchased my bus ticket from Guayaquil to Salinas (90miles) for the exorbitant rate of $3.50.  It was a 2-1/2 hour ride and was very comfortable.  In Salinas there isn’t a bus station per se, only a bus corner. Not used to that.  Most places in Central America have real bus terminals.  It didn’t make any difference to me though.  Just another point of interest in my new adventure.  We arrived a noon and conveniently there was a place called Cevicheland right across the street.  Lots of fresh seafood.  I bought something called seafood mariscos that was priced at $6.50 and when it came it was almost a meal for 2 and included a soft drink.  Needless to say I didn’t eat dinner!  Next stop was to check into a hotel.  I hadn’t made any reservations but had 2 picked out.  The 1^st was Hotel Caravel at $18 a night and booked 1 night.  Up 3 flights of stairs and into what looked like a nice room.  Checked it out and found out that there wasn’t a toilet seat. What the heck!  So I went back down the stairs (did I mention I hurt my right heel 2 days before <don’t know how> and was limping?) to ask about it.  “We don’t have toilet seats says the front desk.”  WHAT???  Checked out, walked back up and down the 3 flights for my luggage and on to the next hotel.  Hostal Aqui / Scores Sports Bar turned out to be very nice and only $18 for a room with a/c.  Great place and it’s owned by expat Will Taylor. Put my stuff in my room and came out for a local pilsner or 2.  I wasn’t hungry (remember I had that big lunch) but almost gave in because everyone was raving about his hamburgers.  Anyway I met a nice group of expats and spent most evenings in the bar with them and shared a few cigars. I also met up with FB friend James Currington and his lady and they toured me around the Salinas area.  Also introduced me to their friends Bill and Colleen who are about to open their new Nuestro Paraiso B&B in Manglaralto.  A few days later I was their first guest, sort of their soft opening.  What a beautiful place! Not really near the beach but close enough to almost walk to and very convenient to buses. I spent 3 nights there and did day tours of a couple towns in the surrounding area that were on my list to visit.

One of the towns I visited was Montanita, maybe 2 miles from Bill and Colleen, filled with restaurants (even a Sushi one), shops, a really nice beach, and a population of Rastafarian and hippy types.  I could live there!  But its low season and I’d have to come back and spend a lot more time there to really get a feeling for the place.  For me it’s the “feel” of the town, not sure how to describe it, but that kind of comfortable “I’m home” feeling that we had the 2^nd time we visited Belize and every year afterward for the 12 that we holidayed there.  I felt that right away here.  But I wasn’t looking at apartments or houses to rent though so I’ll have to come spend more time there in my February and March visit.  Bill gave me the name of a realtor that they used and I’ll get with her before I come back next year.

Digressing for a moment, my plans are to travel the coast south to north and visit about 15-17 towns that I’ve put in a list.  I’ll pick 2-3 that really strike me and then come back for all of February and March and spend time in each to see if I really like it there.  You get a feeling pretty quickly that a certain place might be a good place to live in but until you spend at least a couple of weeks actually living there 24x7 you have no idea what it’s like.  And when I do return I'll still probably check out a few more towns that I missed.  So, that’s my plan and I'm sticking to it!  If you’re interested in seeing the route I plan to take click “map” and it will bring up the map that I’m using.

On Friday 11/8 I moved on to Ayampe, a small village about ½ hour north and in my top 10 places to visit.  It’s a tiny fishing village with dirt streets and very friendly people.  The 12 (yes I counted!) that I passed as I walked the short distance into town all said hello. How cool was that?  I ran into a traveler named Roman, from Argentina, who lucky for me, spoke English. He’s been here about 45 days. .He came planning to spend a week and has never left. He called the village “magical” and has no plans to leave any time soon.  Shades of my friend Conan who came to Kismet for 30 days and never left.  I plan to stay here 2 nights and wander about.

The one thing I’ve been surprised by here is how chilly it’s been.  Not quite jeans/jacket weather but on the verge.  The expats I’ve spoken with say it’s an odd weather year so I’m wondering it’s a 10-11-12 year weather cycle thing. But they do say this time of year is mostly cloudy and can be rather cool.  When I 1^st started looking at Ecuador it was because I want 100 degrees all day every day but soon found that it was more like spring weather most of the year with some high 90’s.  I’m used to the 90 degree heat and 300+ days of sun in Belize so this would take some getting used to!  It’s really all going to depend on the fishing.  When I look at a beach my first thoughts are “do I see and fish swimming and are there places that look like they will attract fish?” I’ve seen some pretty encouraging spots in my travels so far so that’s a plus.  But actually putting a line in the water will be the true test.  I may get in some fishing this trip when I get to San Clemente (I have a FB friend who will lend me a rod) but the heavy fishing will be during my next trip when I bring a rod/reel and tackle.

All in all I’m impressed with Ecuador, its people, and the geography.  Food prices (fresh veggie/fruit especially), bus and cab prices (local bus 40 cents for about 3 towns worth  and a couple of bucks for longer distances and cabs for $1-3 for pretty good distances), restaurant and hotels, etc. are really reasonable and much cheaper than in Belize.  I’m pretty sure that I can make a comfortable life here.

As always, practice peace!  This is the Fatboy in Ecuador signing off for now!!!

Seven more days until my adventure in Ecuador begins!

I’ve been awfully busy the past month and a half researching the pacific coastal towns of Ecuador trying to learn as much about the entire area as possible. Some very long days and nights googling weather patterns, fishing (that should have been #1!), cost of living, apartment and house rentals, medical care, transportation, entertainment, safety issues, government stability,  I could go on and on.  It’s all the things that you have to know in order to make a semi-informed decision on where it is in the country that one would be healthy and safe and live a good life.  I’ve also been plotting the route that I will take after landing in Guayaquil on November 1^st.  My flight on COPA Airlines begins in Cancun at 7:05 November 1st with a place change in Panama City, Panama and ending in Jose Joaquin de Olmedo Airport in Guayaquil in southwestern EC at 5:30pm.  Not sure yet if I'll be spending the night nearby or heading to my 1st destination which is Salinas, right on the coast.

I’ve joined a couple of Facebook expat sites too and have really enjoyed meeting people who already live there, spend a lot of time there, or, like me, are contemplating moving there.  They are a fountain of great information, both the good and the bad of living there, and I look forward to meeting them when I go boots on the ground.

Anyway, what exactly does one look for in moving to a foreign country?  First, where in the country do you want to make your home?  The country has four main geographic regions:

• La Costa, or "the coast", which comprises the low-lying land in the western part of the country, including the Pacific coastline. (My selection)
• La Sierra, or "the highlands", is the high-altitude belt running north–south along the center of the country, its mountainous terrain dominated by the Andes mountain range.  A lot of expats live in this belt.  Not sure if it’s the majority but it seems to be.
• La Amazonía, also known as El Oriente, or "the east", comprises the Amazon rainforest areas in the eastern part of the country, accounting for just under half of the country's total surface area, though populated by less than 5% of the population.
• La Región Insular is the region comprising the Galápagos Islands, some 1,000 kilometers (620 mi) west of the mainland in the Pacific Ocean.

Many of the expats live in the Sierra region in Quito (the capital of EC) and Cuenca.  Both are located above 8,000 feet elevation.  Me, with my breathing problems, I’d be dead in a week, so they are immediately excluded from contention.  Plus you know me and my fishing so you know my 1^st priority for a home.

The government is relatively stable, they use the U.S. dollar as their currency, and healthcare is very good in the major cities with American standards hospitals.  Normal everyday medical and dental needs are pretty darn cheap compared to America and you can buy a pretty cheap insurance plan to supplement that.

Safety is an issue everywhere in the world and it is not any more dangerous in EC.  As with anywhere you need to keep a “heads up” when you are in the street.  Keep you money in several pockets and don’t carry more than you need.  Hey I’ve been all over the world so I already have that heads up and, knock wood, I’ve never had a problem.  Of course I have my “don’t f*ck with me” face on when I’m in sketchy areas too.

Transportation is really good here, and cheap.  From what I’ve been told most buses are $1 an hour for chicken buses, similar to Belize.  They also have a good selection of 1^st class buses and vans for those longer trips..  A couple of the cities even have light rail.  So the last 2 are step up from Belize.

Food costs are low.  Fruits and veggies bought in the local markets are ¼ the cost of Belize and the U.S. There are also several large supermarkets that have much more variety than the markets (tiendas) in the smaller towns.

Real estate costs are very affordable in EC but are on the rise because of all the foreign nationals moving there.  Prices of course depend on what geographical area you live in, with the coast being the highest it seems.  I’ve seen new condo listings in the Andes for around $80K.  That doesn’t matter to me though because I don’t want to own anything. I plan to rent either and apartment or small house.  Some of the prices I’ve seen for that on the coast range from $250-$500 depending on how close you are to the center of town.  I’m not citified and I want quiet so I’ll be looking at the lower end of the scale.  A nice yard to garden in would be nice too so that I can save on food costs.  Between that and fishing I can really save!

Ecuador is a BIG surfing destination and hosts quite a few annual events.  Whale watching is a very big thing too.  Mostly humpbacks and you don’t even need a boat.  Lots of museums and cultural events too.

The weather varies depending on the area that you live in and the season of the year.  While the equator runs through EC it is not as hot as you would expect because their weather is affected by an Antarctic current, which flows north.  They have a rainy season along the coast, much like Belize, but because the seasons are opposite (being in the southern hemisphere) so the rainy season is December to May instead of May to October.  Most days are cloudy along the coast during the winter also.  Nothing that I can’t handle though because I’ll still never see snow or freezing weather again!

So anyway there is so much more that you need to research in order to make that decision but the best way is to have boots on the ground and actually experience it.  I’ll be traveling the coast for the entire month of November.  I have a list of about 15 towns that I’d like to see and I’ll narrow that down to 2 or 3.  I plan to go back for 60 days in the January to March timeframe to spend a greater amount of time in those places to see if living there is what I expect it to be. I may also revisit a town or 2 that I visited in November to try them on for size. The reason for coming back and spending time is that too many people go on holiday and fall in love with a place, run home and sell everything, and move back.  Big mistake for a lot people! You have to be able to live with customs, languages, foods (lack of usually), bugs, bad water, etc. that are different from what you are used to. There are quite a few stories here in BZ of people who’ve moved here and spent a lot of money building their dream beach home only to hate the place after spending a couple of months here.  If you talk to anyone who’s made the move they will always caution you to come back and spend “quality time” living where you think you might like to live and to rent, not buy, for the 1^st year to see if living in that country is all it’s cracked up to be.  You all know me and my journey to, and living in, Belize.  I’ve really loved it but sometimes it’s not been pretty. Remember my night in jail?  I know my brother Dave does!  You have to take the good with the bad and hope that the good side weighs down the scale.  Being flexible in any situation is really important.  So, again, spend time, and in different seasons, to get a true feeling for what life in a country will be like before you make that big leap. For me there is nothing more exciting than meeting people of a different culture and learning what their life is all about.  Of course a few expat friends thrown into the mix is always a plus!

I’ll be blogging my way along the coast to give you a feel for the country and the trials and tribulations of operating in a country where you don’t speak the language…yet.  My friend Sheila will be traveling with me for about 2 weeks too so I’ll let her add her 2 cents to the mix so you get a woman’s perspective of the country.

Five more days before I leave for Cancun for my flight to Guayaquil EC and a new adventure.  I'm really excited!

The Fatboy is bound for Ecuador!!!

Some of you already know but for the rest of you I’ve got itchy feet again so it’s time to leave Belize and start an adventure somewhere else.  For the moment I’ve settled on Ecuador in South America and am spending hours every day exploring the country on the Internet and on, of all places, Facebook.  I just booked my first trip to EC for the entire month of November.  That will give me time to travel their Pacific coast cities/towns/villages slowly and look for a couple of places that I think would suit me.  Then after my Orlando Christmas trip (12/18-1/15) I’ll head back for 2 months to spend a good bit of time in the 2-3 places I like best to see if I truly like living there.  Hey you never know I may hate it and stay in Belize or look for somewhere else!  You just never know.  Hence the extended living time there before I decide.  I plan to move sometime around June or July.  Of course it will be hard leaving Kismet.  I have some great friends (especially Trish, Matt & Angie, Bruce, and Ella) and I love living right on the water.  Of course Matt and Angie will visit me in EC for sure! Matt’s open to fishing and diving anywhere.  And living here will force me to learn Spanish!!!

My feet have been itching for a while now and my joke here is that I needed somewhere warmer.  Give me 100 degrees all day every day and I’m a happy boy! And mind you I haven’t live with air conditioning since I moved here 3-3/4 years ago so that’s how much I’ve gotten used to the heat. Sadly my body has acclimated to the Belize weather and I find myself putting a top sheet on my bed at 70 degrees.  Sad isn’t it that a Chicago boy who also lived in NJ for 14 years as well and also spent almost a year in Antarctica has become sissified to the point that he has trouble handling the temperature that is considered “room temperature”?!  Maybe it’s age, maybe it’s the joint pain when the weather turns cool, or maybe it’s just that I need a different view to wake up to every morning.  Who knows?  But that started me thinking about where I saw myself over the next few years of my life.  So off to the internet in search of warmer climes and good fishing.  My requirement is always to be on or near the water so I can fish every day and supplement my food budget and a place to hang my hammock for my 2^nd favorite activity of the day.  But mostly to be outside with a fishing rod in my hands whether I’m catching or not.  Hey what warmer place than on or near the equator?  Pulled up a world map and started looking at countries along the 0 degrees latitude line?  It’s got to have a stable government so I’m not fearing a coup and have to flee.  It’s got to be at least equal to what I’ve found in Belize as far as infrastructure, food/water availability, safety, and friendly people.  Expats aren’t a requirement but a nice group of English speakers (American, Brit, and Canadian) is always a plus as long as they aren’t the dominant population, especially in a country you can’t speak the language of (yet) in case you need help.  Africa and Asia were out because of the time and cost to get back to the U.S. in case of an emergency as well as a few other issues.  That pretty much left South America.  Looking at the CIA website Ecuador was listed as a pretty safe place with a 2^nd world type infrastructure.  Hey that’s a step up from Belize! The country is about the size of Colorado with a population of 15.5 million.  In comparison BZ is about the size of NJ with a population of less than 340,000. Almost the entire western coast of EC is on the Pacific Ocean.  Fishing!!!  It’s a pretty big surfing, diving, and whale watching destination too drawing people from all over the world.  There are 2 international airports and fares to Orlando are around $500 round trip almost year round.  Their currency is the US dollar and any money deposited in a local bank is in US dollars.  That’s a really important thing for me because you don’t lose any money playing the daily exchange rate game and if and when I move again I’ll be able to close my account and get a pocket full of greenbacks.  Here in Belize my bank account is in Belize dollars.  The exchange rate is always two BZ to one US but if I need dollars I have to find someone who has them.  During the high tourist season that’s pretty easy to do but low season forget it.  So I generally keep a couple thousand US in my safe just in case.  I can get $400 a day from my bank but they charge a fee.  Depending on how often you need to do that it can be expensive. I’m going to have some work to do to clear my BZ account and convert it for free.  So a US dollar account is a really nice plus.

I also want somewhere to live that’s cheaper now that I’m living on Social Security.  Belize is one of the most expensive Central American countries to live in.  Granted I’m living on less than $1000 a month here but I’d like to do some traveling and do my annual Christmas trip back to Orlando so any way I can save on daily expenses to accomplish that I’ll take it.  Reading on various real estate websites a fully furnished 2 bedroom apartment can run as little as $250 a month including utilities.  Fruit and veggie prices are rock bottom cheap there too as compared to here.  They’ve gotten pretty expensive with tomatoes, onions, and peppers (my staples) up to $2-$3 a pound now.  They were about ½ that when I first moved here.  Buses are cheaper there too.  From what I’m being told you can expect to spend 25 cents per travel hour.  I pay $8.50 for the 3 hour trip to Belize City.  In EC that would be cut to 75 cents.  From what I've read the taxis are much cheaper as well.  But you can't always believe what you read so that's why you have to go there.  You need to experience it for yourself.

I joined a couple of websites and 2 pages on Facebook sponsored by expats living in EC where I’ve met a nice bunch of people who, like me with Belize, are willing to tell you the good AND the bad of living in their country of choice.  They have been really helpful.  I’ve been invited to contact a lot of them when I get in-country so they can show me around.  So I’m looking forward to my trip.  My flight out of Belize would have cost over $1200 so I booked on COPA Air out of Cancun (through Panama City) for $738.  I’ll have to spend another $84 round trip on the first class Mexican ADO bus but that still saves me almost $400 that I can spend on accommodations and food in EC.

My route will take me along what is called the “Ruta del Sol” all along the coast.  I’m flying into Guayaquil which is on sort of the southern coast and will head north from there.  I’m using the buses instead of spending the $1500+ to rent a car.  I like the chicken buses anyway because they will travel into each place and I’ll get a quick feeling if it’s interesting enough to get off and spend some time.  I found a website that gives a description of a bunch of the towns along the route with places to stay and eat so that’s going to be helpful.  But to use it I have to have internet access.  So I created an excel spreadsheet with a tab for each of the 3 coastal provinces that I want to visit (there are 4 but 1 is too remote) where I’ve listed places that look promising with a list of recommended places to stay and to eat in each village, town, and city in the province. It will give me a starting point and I’ll be updating it as I travel through each region.   I mentioned it on Facebook and I’m being asked to post it after my trip for others to use.

I already have my Fatboy In Ecuador email address all set up…

So that’s my story and I’m sticking to it!  As always practice peace.  Fatboy In Belize…out!!!